Step 3: Unscrew T-Bolts. Now, remove the plastic bolt caps from the flange bolts, and use a 6â crescent wrench to remove the nuts from the bolts. There will be one bolt on either side of the toilet base. Use a crescent wrench that is no longer than 6â to loosen the bolts on either side of the base of the toilet.
Dig the Trench. Spread out a tarp next to the suspected area of the leak. Your twine or string will indicate the horizontal orientation of the underground pipe; the heaviest concentration of water in the soil provides the vertical axis. Remove the twine and begin digging into the ground.
Step Three: Tighten/Replace Connections. After you replace the washers and apply sealant, tighten the connections using your hands or a plumberâs wrench. Donât tighten them so much that you strip them. If the leak still occurs at the connections, you may need new fittings.
Begin by draining the tank and then removing any old sealant with a putty knife. Once the area is clean, apply a new layer of sealant and allow it to dry for 24 hours. After refilling the tank, mark the waterline and wait a couple of hours to see if any water leaks from the tank. 5. Drain the Tank. Draining the tank of any residual water is the next step to take. When trying to weld or having filling compounds utilized to try to fix a stainless steel tank, the presence of water in tank prevents the effectiveness of the weld or use of fillers from reaching its full potential; hence drainage of water is advised. To clean it, first engage the softenerâs bypass valve to shut off the water. Next, relieve the water pressure by running the softener through a manual regeneration. Finally, remove the caps on both sides of the softener head. Thoroughly clean the injector (right side of the head) and the injector screen (left side).